Soil Charge Pack - Application Instructions

With Soil Charge Packs there are 2 different methods of application. The Water Only Method, and The Top-Dressing Method. Each method has its own unique advantages, read the instructions below for both methods and then pick the method that works best for you and your garden.

 

The Water Only Method

This is the Water Only Method. With this method you will mix the Soil Charge Pack ingredients directly into your base soil and then let it rest for 3-weeks to mature. After the 3-week waiting time you are ready to use the soil for small plants, all the way up to your final transplanting container. NO layering of “hot” soil like common Blood/Bone meal based super soil recipes require! Just plant and forget about the soil layering techniques that require you to layer hot soil on the bottom and lighter soil on the top to create a water only soil!

 

With the Water Only Method the only thing you will add during the growing season is plain water. After harvest you can reuse the same soil by physically remixing and re-amending it with a Soil Charge Pack for another growing cycle. Harvest after Harvest with consistently excellent results. The soil will continue to become richer and richer with life over the years. If you want to add something besides water you can add compost teas once a month if you choose to. (Link to compost tea recipe.) How easy is that! This method makes for a very relaxed and dare we say - easy organic and natural grow.

 

Step 1: Pick a base soil to add the Soil Charge Pack to. Recommended options are listed below. The soil recipes listed below are for small sized Soil Charge Packs that amend 7.5-gal of base soil, scale the recipes up as needed. For example, if you got a Large pack then you will scale these base soil recipes up by 4.) (7.5gal X 4 = 30gal)

 

*Small Soil Charge Packs amend 7.5-gallons of base soil for a water only grow*

*Large Soil Charge Packs amend 30-gallons of base soil for a water only grow*

*Tip - Home improvement stores carry 5-gallon buckets with 1-gallon marks on them for measuring out ingredients.

 

When using homemade soil.

  • 2 ½-gallons of Sphagnum Peat Moss (Use high quality Coco as a substitute, or a mix of the two – but sphagnum peat moss is preferred)

  • 2 ½-gallons of Aeration Amendment (Pumice, Perlite, Vermiculite, Lava rock, Rice hulls, Bio-char etc.)

  • 2 ½-gallons of Worm Castings or Vermi-Compost. (or a mix of the two)

  • 1 Cup of Oyster Shell Flour (Link to Oyster Shell Flour Packs - Click Here)

 

When using high quality bagged soil like Roots, Nectar #4, Fox Farm, Happy Frog, Kings Gold, etc.

  • 6 ¼-gallons of high quality commercial bagged soil

  • 1 ¼-gallons of worm castings

 

When reusing and recycling your organic soil. (R.O.L.S. – Recycled Organic Living Soil)

  • 6-gallons of used soil, old roots and all!

  • 1 ½-gallons of worm castings or vermi-compost. (or a mix of the two)

  • ¼ - ½ gallon of aeration amendment (pumice, perlite, vermiculite, lava rock, rice hulls, bio-char etc.)

 

*Tip - If you’re using your own base soil recipes be sure to use 25-35% worm castings, vermi-compost and/or high-quality compost in your mix.

 

Step 2: After you have your base soil of choice, pour the appropriately sized Soil Charge Pack onto your pile of soil. Mix everything together well, a tarp and small rake work great for this. We recommend wearing a dust mask during mixing. After mixing add water to make moist. Add enough water to make the soil clump up when squeezed into a ball and then crumble apart when released.

 

Step 3: Let the soil sit and rest 3 weeks, longer is great just keep it from drying out. Preferably in temps of 60°f - 80°f - indoors or outdoors, wrapped in a tarp or stored in drums/totes with the lids cracked open for air exchange. These 3 weeks will let the Ph stabilize as the microbes get settled into their new homes, gain populations, and start breaking down the Soil Charge Pack ingredients.

 

That’s it! You’re now ready to use your soil. Add water to your predictable and consistently excellent organic harvests!

 

Use this finished soil for rooted clones, 1-gallon containers, all the way to your final transplant – just add water.

*Tip- When starting seed(s) we suggest using a light soil mix such as pro-mix or peat plugs. Then transplant into your soil as they grow out of the seed starting container.

 

For indoor growers we recommend to use a 7-gallon final container or larger. For outdoor growers we recommend to use a 40-gallon final container/raised bed/ hole in the ground or larger. Here are some guidelines.

A desired/estimated final plant height of 24” - 36” use 7-10 gallons of soil

A desired/estimated final plant height of 36” - 48” use 10-20 gallons of soil

A desired/estimated final plant height of 48” - 60” use 20-30 gallons of soil

A desired/estimated final plant height of 60” - 72” use 35-45 gallons of soil

A desired/estimated final plant height of 72”+ use 50+ gallons

 

Add Endo Mycorrhizae powder during any transplants (recommended), just sprinkle a little bit onto the roots of the transplant going in. This can be ordered on Amazon, look for Xtreme Gardening RTI RT4420 Mykos, 2.2-Pound Bag or similar if you choose to add this.

 

No flushing before harvest, just keep adding water like normal. No Flushing? - Click Here to read more.

 

About your water source

We recommend using chlorine/chloramine free water as to not hurt the living soil microbes. Contact your water company for a water quality report (some are online). If your water has chlorine simply let your water sit out for 24 hours before use so the chlorine can evaporate, it’s nice to add a small fish tank air bubbler to the water while it’s sitting for 24hrs. If your water has chloramine instead of chlorine then we suggest using an R/O filter system to reduce it. If the Ph of your water source is somewhere between 5.9-7.5 (most of America) you won’t need to adjust it or even check it again! The Ph up, and Ph down bottled products kill the soil life. IF you need to lower the Ph of your water use Citric Acid powder from the health food store. IF you need to raise the Ph of your water use Baking Soda. We do suggest to check the Ph of your water at first as there are many different water sources in the world, but the real fact here is that most people will never need to adjust, or even test the Ph of their water again. When we let the plant communicate with a living soil the microbes in the living soil take care of the Ph for us! This simply comes down to the quality of the earth worm castings or compost used when first mixing the soil. Finally, you can get rid of that finicky Ph pen!

 

*Reusing your soil tip - If the old root mass is too solid to break apart then let it dry out for a week.

*Reusing your soil tip - If you had any issues with pests especially Russet Mites during your grow then do not reuse your soil. Remember that this is a living water only soil so there will be small beneficial soil mites and springtails visible to your eye, these are beneficial bugs and part of the soil food web just leave them alone and let the soil move around before your eyes – it's pretty amazing!

*General Tip - If you run a perpetual garden then we suggest you make up 2 batches of new soil, then as you get into a rotation and schedule with your plants you can re-amend used soil so that by the time you pull the crop out you have your old soil with nutrients and minerals all ready to go. Repeat the cycle over and over. Just plant and add water! That’s it!

*General Tip – Do not add water soluble synthetic bottled nutrients to your organic soil as this can upset the soil balance. If you want to add something other than water we suggest looking into a compost tea – Click Here.

*General Tip - Start your own worm farm to get almost free worm castings/vermi-compost! It is very easy and doesn't smell indoors. This really cuts down on the cost of growing organically and naturally – significantly.

*General Tip – Take a few worms out of your worm farm and add then directly to your growing containers, putting worms into your containers and then adding any extra leaves and stems as mulch during the grow is excellent for the life in your soil! When growing outdoors always use some kind of mulch layer on top of the bare soil like straw, leaves, compost, clover, etc.

The Topdressing/No-Till Method

This is the topdressing/no-till method. A big advantage to this method of growing is that you can plant seeds or young plants directly into the soil the same day you mix the soil – there is NO 3-week “cook time” involved. Then from there simply top-dress the Soil Charge Packs ingredients by spreading a thin layer over the top soil surface/mulch layer - all the way to your organic harvest. This method is great for raised beds (indoors or outdoors), or anywhere where the soil is not physically removed and remixed with amendments between each cycle/season. After harvest you simply leave your soil right there in the same container/raised bed/hole in the ground etc, and cut out a new hole for a new plant to go right in. There is no-tilling of the soil. There is no throwing away of the soil after each harvest – saving you time and energy. This soil will be reused over and over as long as you would like, it will just keep getting better and stronger.

 

In this method you will add worms directly to the soil and create a mulch layer on top of the soil surface for them to thrive in. During the growing season you will chop up any leaves and stems you remove from the plant and use them as mulch, in turn creating the best environment for the living soil microbes and worms to live and thrive in. Other than that - just add water! Indoors use a 15-gallon container/raised bed, or larger. Outdoors use a 40-gallon container/raised bed/hole in the ground, or larger.

 

After planting you will simply top-dress from the beginning during the vegetative growth, during the transition time to flowering, until mid bloom – that’s it! All in that same container – over and over again. How easy and organic is that! How many harvests will you get with the same soil? How much money will this style of organic growing save you? Never buy expensive bagged soil or bottled nutrients again – grow organically and naturally from using living soil.

 

Step 1: This is your starting point when making your NEW soil from scratch. After your first harvest with the new soil you will simply skip to Step 3 and continue the growing cycle with your same soil in the same container, you will never till or remove the soil for as long as you want too, for years and years – harvest after harvest. As you can imagine this saves you A LOT of money on commercial bagged soil and bottled nutrients! And also saves you effort from disposing of a lot of soil after each harvest and replacing with new soil each time.

 

*Tip - Home improvement stores carry 5-gallon buckets with 1-gallon marks on them for measuring out ingredients.

 

RECIPE TO MAKE 7.5-GALLONS OF SOIL – SCALE UP AS NEEDED

  • 2.5-gallons of Sphagnum Peat Moss

  • 2.5-gallons of Aeration Amendment (Pumice, Lava Rock, Bio-Char etc.)

  • 2.5-gallons of Worm Castings or Vermi-Compost (or a mix of the two)

  • 1 cup of Oyster Shell Flour (Link to Oyster Shell Flour Packs - Click Here)

  • 2 cups of the Soil Charge Pack Ingredients

 

If you can’t source the items needed for homemade base soil then you can use high quality bagged soil like Roots, Nectar #4, Fox Farm, Happy Frog, Kings Gold, etc. *Tip - When using commercial bagged soil give the soil a 2-week “resting/cooking” time just in case the soil manufacture made their soil and bagged it the same day without letting it mature a bit - so it would have been too hot to use right away let alone with added ingredients – it happens. So, we suggest the 2-week resting time when using commercial bagged soil.

  • 6 ¼-gallons of high quality commercial bagged soil

  • 1 ¼ gallons of worm castings

  • 1 cup of the Soil Charge Pack ingredients

 

Step 2: Mix everything together well, a tarp and small rake work great for this. We recommend wearing a dust mask during mixing. After mixing add de-chlorinated water to make moist. Don’t add to much water, just moist soil is what we are going for. Add the newly mixed soil to your containers, raised beds, or holes in the ground.


Step 3: Plant your seeds, rooted clones, or young plants. Indoors use a 15-gallon container/raised bed or larger. Outdoors use a 40-gallon container/hole in the ground/raised bed or larger.

*Optional but recommended - Add Endo Mycorrhizae powder during the transplant, just sprinkle a little bit onto the roots of the transplant going in. This can be ordered on Amazon, look for Xtreme Gardening RTI RT4420 Mykos or similar if you choose to add this. If starting from seed you can add water soluble Mykos at a later point.

 

Step 4: Top-dress ¼ - ½ cup of the Soil Charge Pack ingredients per plant. Sprinkle evenly around the base of the plant, keep it at least 3-4” from the stalk or planted seed location. *Tip - Wet the soil before topdressing to control the dust.

 

Step 5: Add some kind of mulch layer, and continue to add more as needed to keep it ½ -1½” thick. Evenly spread your mulch around the plant stalk or planted seed location. Keep the mulch 2-3” away from your stalk or planted seed location as to not block out the light from small shoots coming up. This could be organic straw, old leaves and stems from other plants, shredded up brown craft paper, or even a green living mulch such as Crimson Clover or Buckwheat seeds. If you do a green living mulch then simply chop it up and drop it onto the soil surface as it grows tall. No wood chips.

 

Step 6: If your soil is newly mixed then add a small handful (or a full handful if you have extra) of red wiggler composting worms to each container/plant. These worms will thrive and self-populate and even self-regulate their population right there in your growing containers. After they are established you will never need to add worms to the container again and you will simply skip this step. As long as you provide a nice mulch layer and water, they will be very happy and continue to make worm castings for you! Composting worms can be ordered online from Amazon, look for Uncle Jim’s Composting Worms. We use them and have had great success in the past. Another option is to go to a local farm with horses and ask if you can hunt around for worms in the horse manure composting area.

Application rates

When growing in containers (indoors or outdoors) apply a top-dress of ¼ cup of Soil Charge Pack ingredients per every 10-gallons of soil every 10-14 days. Sprinkle evenly around the base of the plant, keeping the layer from getting to thick – just cover the top evenly with a nice thin layer, keep it at least 3-4” from the stalk. You can gently pull back your mulch and work it into the top layer of soil, or just go ahead and sprinkle it right on top of the mulch and water in. Stop topdressing 30 days into the flowering cycle.

 

When growing in raised beds (indoors or outdoors) or in the ground directly outdoors then top-dress 1cup per 10sq feet every 10-14 days. Sprinkle evenly around the base of the plant, keep it at least 3-4” from the stalk. You can gently pull back your mulch and work it into the top layer of soil, or just go ahead and sprinkle it right on top of the mulch and water in. Stop topdressing 30 days into the flowering cycle.

 

During the last 4-6 weeks of the plants life you will simply give your plants water. If you want to you can add compost teas and/or molasses teas. Apply Black Strap Unsulphured Molasses @ 5-10ml of Black Strap Unsulphured Molasses per gallon of water. (Link to Compost Tea Recipe)

 

Don’t toss away your old leaves and stems! During the growing season chop up and drop any leaves and stems you remove from the plant as mulch, in turn creating the best environment for the living soil microbes and worms to live and thrive in. You have created a living, composting, growing container! All the nutrients and minerals in the leaves will be recycled right back into your soil.

 

No flushing before harvest, just keep adding water like normal. No Flushing? - Click Here to read more.

After harvest

Use a small shovel/trowel to cut out a hole the correct size for the new transplant going in. Make the hole a little deeper than the new plant going in. Try to be careful and only cut out what you need to remove. If your growing container is large enough you can put the new plant right next to the old stalk from the previous grow. Of course, if your growing from seed just plant the seed without digging a large hole. The old stalk and root system will be left to decay as food for the soil microbes. This also leaves a whole entire established living soil network system with tunnels for the new plant roots to tap right into, giving an explosion of growth as they grow into it –  by reconnecting the roots to the living soil reestablished connections. Simply continue on again from Step 3! How many harvests will you get with the same soil? How much money will this style of organic growing save you? Never buy expensive bagged soil or bottled nutrients again!

 

About your water source

We recommend using chlorine/chloramine free water as to not hurt the living soil microbes. Contact your water company for a water quality report (some are online). If your water has chlorine simply let your water sit out for 24 hours before use so the chlorine can evaporate, it’s nice to add a small fish tank air bubbler to the water while it’s sitting for 24hrs. If your water has chloramine instead of chlorine then we suggest using an R/O filter system to reduce it. If the Ph of your water source is somewhere between 5.9-7.5 (most of America) you won’t need to adjust it or even check it again! The Ph up, and Ph down bottled products kill the soil life. IF you need to lower the Ph of your water use Citric Acid powder from the health food store. IF you need to raise the Ph of your water use Baking Soda. We do suggest to check the Ph of your water at first as there are many different water sources in the world, but the real fact here is that most people will never need to adjust, or even test the Ph of their water again. When we let the plant communicate with a living soil the microbes in the living soil take care of the Ph for us! This simply comes down to the quality of the earth worm castings or compost used when first mixing the soil. Finally, you can get rid of that finicky expensive Ph pen!

 

*Reusing your soil tip - If you had any issues with pests especially Russet Mites during your grow then do not reuse your soil. Remember that this is a living soil so there will be small beneficial soil mites and springtails visible to your eye, these are beneficial bugs and part of the soil food web just leave them alone and let the soil move around before your eyes – it's pretty amazing!

*General Tip – Do not add water soluble synthetic bottled nutrients to your organic soil as this can upset the soil balance. If you need to add something other than water, we suggest looking into a compost tea – Click Here.

*General Tip - Start your own worm farm to get almost free worm castings/vermi-compost! It is very easy and doesn't smell indoors. This really cuts down on the cost of growing organically and naturally – significantly.

*General Tip - A very basic compost tea is always a nice addition as it adds so much great diverse life to your soil, but not a requirement in this system. Remember, the only requirement with this growing method is to add water.

If you have any questions or concerns please contact us and we will gladly answer them. Click Here to Contact Us